If you’ve been in Central Ohio awhile, chances are you’ve enjoyed the Belgian-inspired beers from Rockmill Brewery, one of the pioneers of the Ohio craft beer scene. A visit to the Lancaster farm headquarters was a must, and you may have fond memories of visiting the taproom to try a saison while overlooking the serene setting in the foothills of the Hocking Hills.

In 2022, that legacy seemed in question when the brewery was listed for sale. Fortunately for Rockmill fans, new owners are set to build on that tradition, emphasizing all that Ohio has to offer.

Austin and Taylor Caulk have been running Rockmill for a little over a year, living on-site and managing the daily operations, first while awaiting the brewery sale, then winning an auction for the property in March, and finally receiving the official ownership paperwork to confer the business to them. For Austin, this has meant constant battles in getting all of the equipment on the farm, with its nine buildings, back up and running. One of the biggest challenges was in brewing test batches of some of Rockmill’s core beers on equipment that had sat dormant for some time and having a “mad dash to fix the glycol machine because we had beer in the tanks and we had to cool it down.” Fortunately, the part was acquired in Columbus and the machine could be repaired in time to save the batch.

During my visit, beer from three test batches was on draft, along with a seltzer made on-site and a variety of guest drafts to fill out the 15 taps.

How do these initial batches taste? I was pleased to find they taste very authentic to the historic Belgian styles inspired over the centuries, and have not deviated from Rockmill’s originals.

Pilsner – Clear, crisp, and clean, this easy-drinking brew offers a cracker-like malt flavor and just a hint of hops to keep it light.

Petite Saison – A bit funkier than the pilsner, with more of a yeast body and lots of earthy notes. Not too spicy as some farmhouse styles can be, this is a great gateway to other Belgian styles.

Tripel – A big beer with complex flavors that still goes down smoothly, filled with honey flavors and just a bit of dried fruit flavor in the finish. This has the character to match all of its 9% ABV.

Cucumber Lime Seltzer– Refreshing, herbal, and soothing, with a perky citrusy-tart finish, an enjoyable gluten-free option.

According to Austin, “We have more than 25 recipes to pull from, [which were] inherited from Rockmill.”

The brewery has seven tanks, so with the September hiring of head brewer Seth Dumm, the initial plan is to bring back several of Rockmill’s core styles. Expect to see the return of a classic IPA as well as seasonal favorites like Cerise, a cherry sour in summer, Saison Noir, a darker farmhouse style for fall, and Austin’s favorite, the Rugged Expanse stout. The Caulks are also avid foragers and gardeners, planning to highlight hyperlocal ingredients like foraged mushrooms and spruce tips.

“I love that the water is a huge part of that,” Austin said. “This is the Hocking River right here, it doesn’t get more Hocking Hills than that.”

In addition to beers and seltzers, Rockmill offers wines and a variety of cocktails, like the popular Mint Old-Fashioned made with Taylor’s garden mint. They offer weekly Friday wine tastings “to educate people and take the intimidation out of it” and make the offerings even more accessible.

In the future, the Caulks plan to open several existing buildings – including the former tasting building – and new chalets on the property for rentals through Airbnb so guests can enjoy the scenic property.

“The first couple of hires will be an events coordinator and a brewer,” Austin said, so that they can begin booking weddings and bring more local and regional musicians to perform on site. The aim is creating a “reason to hang out with family, friends, and you get closer to everybody”.

Rockmill Brewery is open Thursday 4 – 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday 12 – 9 p.m., and Sunday 12 – 8 p.m.. Check their Facebook, facebook.com/rockmillbrewery, and Instagram instagram.com/rockmillbrewery for current events and food offerings.